I Followed the mod presented in hackaday since my original Xbox 360′s PSU burnt up.
Result: clean and cheap working power supply that does not overheat.
How can’t I post images?
For the intrested ones, here is a fast scheme of the 360′s power cable and ATX short.





hey, have you had any problems playing some games? I’m using the atx psu as well but it resets in the middle of some games.
Make sure your PSU is strong enough to handle large power consumptions, my first (the one pictured) PSU already ‘burned’ from overuse for high power request so i replaced it with a better PSU for high power consummation. Works like a charm :)
Have you tried using the blue power-enable to turn on the power supply?
No, I didn’t.
I think I need to add a NOT gate for it to work. I have yet to ‘investigate’ how the blue cable works.
i did setup everything according to the instructions but the after powering it on red light around the on button is blinking
could anyone tell me which wires i use and which of the six xbox holes should go in what holes?.i have no xbox supply so i want to solder wires straight from atx switching box,any help would be great.thanks.
I have the same problem as Sree… I used this method to lengthen my Xbox AC cables since they go in a wall. I connected everything right, but I get the 3 red lights… Maybe it is because all of the xbox wires, say the yellow ones, end up being a single wire instead of 3 different ones. Could it be that the xbox isnt getting the right amount of power because of my wire lenght? hence the 3 red lights
Any help would be greatly appreciated, tahnks a lot!
Okay, My Xbox 360 power supply just got fried and I don’t know what to do x[. I want to know how to make a 360 power supply out of an ATX PSU but don’t know the steps. Is it hard?
how many amperes on the 12v land 5v lines?
ok, I did it. but I want to keep the PSU awake so I don’t have to reset time each time I turn on the 360. Is there away to keep it awake but with no fans running? Anyone?
They say you can use a NOT gate with the GREEN and BLACK (as shown on second picture) with the blue PWR_ENABLE wire.
However, no one have confirmed that, and I’m a chicken to try it myself :)
Hello, I got an xbox360, but my PSU screwed up. I’ve followed your instructions but I got a problem.
In the scheme of the 360’s power cable: red wire goes to upper-left corner and blue wire goes to upper-right corner (in front view) of the power cable, my problem is: with a continiuty test I’ve tested that my red wire goes to the upper-right corner and blue wire to upper-left corner of the 360′s power cable, what can I do?
The image shows the back of the xbox360, not the cable layout.
I have an issue where the wires on the atx warm up and melt .. and i have to re cut and redo the wiring..pls any help would be good
some got help i got a 480 w atx power supply followed the instruction pluged it in and power supply is on but no power going thruogh it must be a bad ground in side or somthing internal need help asap iam trying muliy things need help
ok heres what i got 4 yellow 4 blacks 1 red and 1 blue + the sheild on the cable witch is a ground any ideas on what to do?
i need a inside picture on how this guy did this of hooking it up because iam so cufused so the guy that did this take a inside pic of what u did for all of us plz and thanx
can anyone help me , i got a xbox 360 with a psu that has a power cord with only two pins , and that thing that goes into the outlet has also two pins but they are in an angle , what is interesting is that the psu has the same specification as a normal psu (PAL) so i figured that the only thing needed to be changed is the power cord, what should i do ?
Help! my xbox 360 psu went pop and I have an original xbox and have got the psu out of there, will the xbox 360 work with the old xbox supply, does anyone know how to wire it up? I have the standard hard disk cable connector and have cut it off and matched the colours on the xbox 360 power cable but nothing happens when I turn it on.
Any help?
Clive
IF YOU WANT TO PLAY THE SAFE SIDE.. JUST GET THE PSU ENERGYZER BY TALISMOON ON AMAZON (15$ SHIPPED WITH PRIME – HURRY!)
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BY THE WAY, I DID THE PSU MOD AND SO FAR THE CONSOLE WORKS PERFECTLY.. THE REAR DOES GET MILDLY HOT. IVE NEVER PLAYED XBOX BEFORE, BUT I THINK THIS IS NORMAL.
I FOLLOWED THE DIAGRAM:
POWER CORD >>> ATX WIRE sequence
1 RED TO 1 PURPLE
4 YELLOW TO 1 YELLOW
4 BLACK TO 6 BLACK
FOR ATX PSU ONLY:
((( BRIDGE REMAINING 1 BLACK AND 1 GREEN)))
*LEAVE ALL OTHER WIRES ALONE*
*I JUST USED ELECTRIC TAPE, NO SOLDER*
*I WRAPPED THE WHOLE BUNDLE WITH FOIL*
*THEN FINISHED WITH ANOTHER ELECTRIC TAPE WRAPPING FOR THE OUTSIDE*
*I’M THINKING ABOUT ADDING SOUND-SENSITIVE RED LASER LIGHTS (USING PSU TO POWER THEM OFCOURSE) SOMEWHERE IN THE CONSOLE CASE AS WELL*
*SPRAY PAINT CASE GLOSSY BLACK AND NOW IT LOOKS LIKE AN ELITE!*
———————–
AND OH YEA… THE PSU I USED WAS A $23 SHIPPED-SUNBEAM 480W FROM N*WEGG.
SPECS:
- NICE GLOSSY BLACK FINISH (SOUND FAMILIAR?)
- 12V (18A)
ooops… reached max # text = P
….
- 5Vsb (2A)
- 360 requirement: (16.5A AND 1A)
~paz~
Hey, rich
When you said “Black to 6 black” did you mean all 4 black wires from the power cord with 6 from the ATX PSU? (Same thing with yellow). And do I wrap all wires of the same color together? Thanks in advance!
^Sorry, didn’t notice the digits before black and yellow ^^.
yup, you wire all the same colors together. what i did was i combined all the same colored wires from the atx first, then did the same for the cable, then combined those two resulting (thicker obviously) wires together.
WARNING:
SOMEONE PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED THE WIRES GET VERY HOT AND ALL THEY GET WAS THE RROL >>> INITIALLY, MY 360 WORKED PERFECTLY, HOURS AND HOURS W/O ANY PROBLEM… THEN ONCE THE ACTUAL GAMEPLAY IS ABOUT TO LOAD, THE CONSOLE SHUTS DOWN (RROL)…
>>> THE WIRES REALLY WERE VERY HOT, AND I THINK THIS IS THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM: YOU NEED A LOT OF INSULATION AROUND THE WIRES, AS YOU NOTICE ON THE 360 POWER CORD, VERY THICK CABLE.
OTHERWISE, YOU’D HAVE MELTED WIRES.
>>> I’M ACTUALLY ABOUT TO REDO MINE TODAY. I WOULD WIRE THEM THE SAME WAY. BUT I WOULD KEEP ALL THE INSULATION/SKIN/SHIELDING,ETC THAT I STRIPPED OFF FROM THE 360 CORD. AND I WOULD USE THOSE MATERIALS TO INSULATE THE NEWLY JOINED WIRES.
OR YOU COULD GO TO A HARDWARE STORE N BUY YOUR OWN
THE IDEA IS YOU WANT TO MAINTAIN THAT THICK INSULATION THROUGHOUT THE 360 CABLE
*BUT DON’T TAKE MY ADVICE AS A GUARANTEE.. I HAVEN’T TRIED IT YET EITHER.
BUT HOPEFULLY IT SHOULD SOLVE THE ISSUE.
~PAZ~
****** NOTICE *****
disregard EVERYTHING I SAID ABOVE!!
i dont think ure supposed to connect all black wires of atx to 360 cord…
i think its just 1 wire for each color that connects to the wires of the 360 cord…
sorry for any inconvenience/problems this might have caused…
——————————
the console still worked fine with that method, but not for a long term.
thanks
CORRECT METHOD!!!!!!!!!!!
POWER CORD >>> ATX WIRE sequence
1 RED TO 1 PURPLE
4 YELLOW TO 1 YELLOW
4 BLACK TO 1 BLACK
FOR ATX PSU ONLY:
((( BRIDGE REMAINING 1 BLACK AND 1 GREEN)))
*** SOLDER THE YELLOWS AND THE BLACKS ***
>>> AFTER I DID THE CONNECTIONS THIS WAY, THE CONNECTION SITE NEVER GOT HOT ANYMORE!!!!
im the same guy who wrote the last 3 posts (rich, rich, anon..)
just a quick update>>>
THE 360 STILL WORKS PERFECTLY, SINCE I’VE CONNECTED THE WIRES THE NEW WAY.
I’VE BEEN PLAYING IT FOR A WEEK NOW, AND JUST A FEW HOURS AGO, WE’VE USED IT TO WATCH KINGDOM DVD, PLAY WMVS FROM A FLASH DRIVE, AND PLAY 3 GAMES FOR AT LEAST 3 HOURS W/O TURNING IT OFF. I HAVE IT CONNECTED TO OUR 42″ PANNY PLASMA, AND IT SITS ON TOP OF THE ATX PSU, ALLOWING FOR AMPLE VENTILATION = )
Is this method still working for you? I really hope so, ’cause I’ve tried every possible way except this one, and it gives me 3ROD every time. I’ll try this tonight. thanks for sharing!
You can make the power supply turn on with the xbox360 as follows. The blue wire from the xbox goes to +5VDC when the power button is pressed. To make it activate the power supply you have to connect it via a 10K resistor to the base of an BC548 NPN transistor. The collector is connected to the green wire to the power supply and the emitter is connected to ground. I have done this on mine and it works perfectly.
Hi! If I’ve got an ATX with 12V@15A, will it work? Thank you!
caviar >> the 360 requires 16.5A @ 12v, so im not sure if thatll work
ramy >> the atx psu still works great.. never heats up
Hey.
First time i got it working, then i wanted to make it nice and cut all the other cables and wanted to solder from the inside, as liranuna has done shown in picture.. But doesnt work now..
Questions:
1. Can i solder the green one with any black one, or does it have to be that black one from pin 15?
2. Do you have any pictures of how it looks from the inside of the PSU?
3. Was it ok that i cut all other cables?
Let me know what i have done wrong..
hey yildirim,
yea, u can bridge the green atx wire with any black atx wire.
heres the only things i can think of that went wrong:
- u melted part(s) of the wire(s) from soldering. u actually dont even need to solder the green and black. just twist them together and cover with electric tape. they won’t get that hot.
- u accidentally cut one or more of the wires that shoudn’t be cut
- u accidentally touched the hot iron tip against one of the components/circuit boards/etc inside the psu
hope this helps and hope its an easy fix
later
= )
Hi, when I search for “xbox 360 atx psu transistor” in google, this site is the first match, but when I click the link, google redirects me to “http://your-needs.info/search/index.php?q=xbox+360+atx+psu+transistor”
please take a look to see if your great blog is not being scammed by this crappy google-like site.
All i can say… Is this works wonderfully….. My friend gave me his old X-box 360 that had the infamous “Red ring of death” I ended up replacing the old Thermal compound because i wasn’t sure if it was that or the PSU…. Turned out to be the PSU…. Had an old 500W power supply from my old computer. Hacked away at some wires, spliced a few together, Plugged it in… Turns out he still has a few months on his Xbox Live account :) Been playing Halo3 for a few hours now… No signs of overheating/etc..
I’ve performed this mod on a little more raw level from a different tut. I don’t think this one was posted yet, ended up soldering directly to the board, wasn’t aware of which wires went where for the PWR_ENABLE (Blue) and +5VSB (red) connections from the power connector, just bridged green/black on the psu. Mine’s a 1st gen Elite, worked great for about 6 months and started overheating on me.
Match Red (360) to Purple (ATX PSU) and
Match Blue (360) to Green (ATX PSU) to use PWR_ENABLE, which just means the ATX PSU turns on when you hit the 360 power button.
Just accomplished the mod here for a friend using a cable from a bad elite PSU hooked up to a 300W ATX…and a power connector ripped (literally) off a bad motherboard. Everything seems to work, but the 360 (1st gen Arcade) still throws a 0001
ATX PSU:
Delta Electronics DPS-300PB
300W
+12V / 15A
-12V 0.8A
+5V / 30A
+5VSB / 2A
I just completed this mod and it works nicely. Yes a transistor connected to the black, green and blue leads will work to turn the Xbox360 off and on. The reason you cannot connect the blue wire directly to the green wire is because the power supply expects the gree wire to be at zero volts to turn the power supply on and the Xbox360 power supply requires 3.3 volts on the blue wire to turn the power supply on. When connecting the wires to the computer power supply connect each yellow wire to a separate yellow wire on the power supply cable. The same applies for the black wires. That can be easily done if you have a newer power supply with an 8 pin 12 volt connector and will also give you an extra 12 volt wire and ground for running fans or in my case the water cooling system.
I think the best way to hook up 5v and 12v and GND is to use one cable from the ATX PSU for each cable in the XBOX cable, that way there’s not too much current on any cable, so that way your cables won’t melt, like one commenter had. Its the sheer amount of power that an XBOX requires that melts cables. if you use flimsy cable for 16+ amps (more than your household outlets) you WILL melt cables.